We went from one extreme to another, leaving Susan River Homestead and good, old-fashioned one horsepower, for Fraser Island where Fraser Experience Tours waited to provide us with a much more modern steed, one of its Hummers.
We felt like VIPs from the moment we arrived at the marina to take the barge to Fraser Island and the trip hadn’t even begun. We had no expectations or knowledge of what Peter, our guide and driver on our Fraser Island Hummer Tour, had planned. We didn’t know what he had stowed in the boot or much about Kingfisher Bay Resort where we would stay later that evening. We were in for a treat.
It’s an adventure the moment the Hummer hits the island. There’s no fancy port, not even a jetty, just straight onto the white sand tracks that twist and wind through the forest. I got this rush of realisation that this wasn’t just a holiday destination. This was stunning wilderness.
Fraser Island has lakes, all fresh water and all stunning. We visited Lake McKenzie. As you approach the shore it seems like you’re paddling into the sea. The water is crystal clear so the white sand turns turquoise and finally disappears to deep blue as the lake bed drops away. It’s easy to forget it’s not salt water. As I dove in I realised I was less buoyant than in salt water and came flapping to the surface with a bit of a splutter, I don’t think anyone saw.
Peter had packed away an endless supply of picnic hampers. In the morning he threw a cloth over a table at the Central Station picnic area and fed us chocolate cake and tea. During the arvo he unfolded a picnic blanket on the sand of 75 Mile Beach where we ate a lunch of gourmet sandwiches, wine and fruit. As evening came he popped open a bottle of bubbly and fed us chocolates at Lake McKenzie. This must be how Arabian royalty go on safari. On a full tour, you will also visit Eli Creek, the Maheno Shipwreck & the Coloured Sands.
We met a carpet python that night on the Kingfisher Bay Resort’s ranger-led night walk. The resort itself is like something from Jurassic Park, a beautiful, sympathetically designed building nestling in the undergrowth. I thought we’d walk for 10 or 15 minutes to get deep into the undergrowth but within 50 metres of the resort foyer we were face to face with a big snake that slid slowly down a branch towards us as if to pose for some photos.
Later our ranger, Sonja, used an old trick to coax a Funnel Web spider out of his hole and when he finally sprang out we’d all gotten so quiet and still that even Sonja jumped from the fright.
Seabelle Restaurant, inside Kingfisher Bay Resort, will blow your mind and if you’re a sea foodie then prepare to throw all table manners to the wind, you’ll forget yourself. Let me give you a tip though - go to Kingfisher’s bush tucker talk and taste just before dinner.
We joined a small group seated outside the restaurant where one of the chefs and Sonja (our ranger) had set up a table complete with stove and lots of small plates, each with a different bush flavour waiting for us to taste.
We had a ball learning about the abundance of food available when you know where to look for it. We tried herbs and spices and every once in a while the chef from Seabelle would fire up the stove and cook us some kangaroo, emu or crocodile. I love kangaroo, I think cute must mean tasty. The crocodile was inoffensive (even more so than chicken) but the emu was a little too gamey for me. The best bit was if we didn’t like the flavour of the moment we’d trade with our neighbour for something else. Sonja even told me I could lick the plate, sorry mum.
The rooms at Kingfisher Bay Resort are beautiful. A terrace of green corrugated buildings rise up on small stilts to two-stories and overlook lush undergrowth and the waters surrounding the west coast of Fraser. Beautiful, wooden gangways wind through the small complex leading you to your plush room with ensuite. The rooms are large and have beautiful photos of Fraser Island by local photographers on the walls. Here you’ll find all the mod-cons you’d expect plus balcony views second to none.
Continue reading... Day 3: Fraser Island by 4WD bus
Fraser Coast has a plethora of great places for you to stay on your holiday. From eco-certified resorts to quaint B&B's, the options are endless... More on Accommodation > More on Accommodation >
The Fraser Coast is a nature-lovers paradise... so come see for yourself and we're sure you'll agree too. More on Things To See And Do >